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Josh's Reviews

Josh JosephsonEach link includes the first part of the review. Many of the reviews also include pictures of the individual dishes.

Dr. Josh Josephson
Trained as a research optometrist, and now owner of Josephson Opticians, one of Josh Josephson's abiding passions is food. Inspired by his father's highly seasoned Romanian influenced dishes and his mother's small but perfectly executed English Canadian repertoire, his own skills developed in reaction to the poor food provided in his college dorm when he moved out to fend for himself. Almost three decades ago, he and a partner established The Cookbook Store with Alison Fryer as manager with whom he continues to share his culinary vision. While remaining owner of Josephson Opticians, Josh has mostly retired from optometry and now satisfies his curiosity about international cuisines through frequent eating pilgrimages to both famous and obscure restaurants around the world. Member: les chevaliers du tastevin; la chain des rotisseurs; the international wine and food society.

See the full poster of Josh with some of Toronto's leading chefs that appeared in Toronto Life in 2010. Photos by Caitlin Cronenberg.

Jump to posts from July 2011to current.

January to June 2011 posts

Susur Still Has His Mojo!! An Exceptional Meal and Exceptional Wines
Thursday, June 30
I personally organized a menu with Susur for a private wine dinner for 9 friends. Susur was in Toronto and in his kitchen. This was a red wine themed evening. The wines were all served with the amuses and hors d'oevres and enjoyed as we chose, with the rest of the meal.


Barque Restaurant at Night

Monday, June 27
We began with a terrific, juicy miami ribs starter with a very tasty bbq sauce
Then, brisket arrived, presented in a cast iron skillet, not too smoky but with a solid beefy flavour and quite tender. The brisket was very good but I might have preferred a little more smoky flavour.


The Drake Dining Roadshow: Summer School

Friday, June 24
The Drake Hotel launched it's Dining Roadshow: First Stop: Summer School Dining Hall which runs from June 23 to Sept 4th. Its a restaurant-within- a- restaurant concept. After Sept 4th, it will change themes... Homemade tomato cream soup with alphabet noodles, garlic and scallion olive oil. This was a wonderful adult version of childhood's Campbell's Alphabet Soup and praised by all.


The Pasta Bar and Grill, Toronto

Saturday, June 18
The Pasta Bar is one of those longstanding, reliable restaurants that has a tradition of being a place for a casual meal that one knows will be good. If you are wondering where you might eat before a show, where you might have a casual meal after work, this is one of those places that knowledgeable Torontonians will attend. The co-owner/ executive chef of both the Pasta Bar and Scaramouche, the more formal adjacent dining room, is Keith Frogget, a well respected and established toronto chef. The operations chef in charge of the Pasta Bar is Scott Hildebrandt. Co-owner Carl Korte is one of the best "front of the house" gents in the city, a classy, knowledgeable and knows most everyone, kind of guy.


Dinner Restaurant, London, UK

Wednesday, June 15
Dinner Restaurant has been awaited by the food community for quite some time, a resto developed by Chef Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck that resurrects the culinary past of English cuisine. Each dish is listed on the menu with the date of it's origin, ranging from the late 14th century to the early 19th century. Blumenthal and his long time executive chef, now in charge of his London restaurant, Ashley Palmer-Watts, have used contemporary techniques and devices to update each dish and give them a current spin.


What's Your Beef, Group of 7 Chefs at Cowbell, Toronto

Tuesday, June 14
The tragedy is that more people in the GTA did not get to hear about this stellar event held at Cowbell Restaurant. The chefs participating at this event are a good cross-section of the creative vanguard of cuisine in Toronto. Why does Toronto not have it's own version of a Time Out Magazine that could expose this kind of event to the public at large? This is the question of the moment.


Barque, Take 2, Lunch at the Source

Monday, June 13
After reading about takeout Barque, I decided to go to the source. I was hoping for more than sandwiches, but that's it, that's lunch. For those of you hoping for bbq'd sliced brisket or bbq'd chicken or ribs or pulled lamb, those are dinner items only.


Loving Lunch At Nota Bene Resto, Toronto

Friday, June 10
I look forward to hearty lunches at Nota Bene. Wednesday has wonderful smoked meat (I skip the cheese!!). This time, a Thursday, I enjoyed lunch with a friend. So, we got to split the the fabulous, full of flavour, wagyu beef burger (beef from Cumbrae's), cooked medium rare, accompanied by terrific french fries, and the pulled pork sandwich. Both were knock your socks off good!


The Drake Hotel, Toronto: Special Dinner for the Cookbook Store

Monday, June 6
A meal arranged by chef Anthony Rose for the staff of The Cookbook Store consisted of a succession of "surprise" courses. Ricotta cheese with Olives, slow roasted cherry tomatoes with thyme, all drizzled with lovely olive oil, topped on country style grilled toast...


Italian Wine Theme Dinner At the York Club for L'Ordre Mondia
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Saturday, June 4
Chef Jason Thede prepared an Italian inspired menu for this Italian wine event organized by Geoffrey Johnson for L'Ordre Mondial.
We began the evening with Prosecco di Vald Vend, Bisol, Brut D.O.C. 2009 along with 3 hors d'oevres: Bresaola with Arugula and Onion Marinade; Roasted Eggplant with Parmesan and Herb Crostini; Marsala-marinated Foie Gras Terrine with Shaved Fennel and Honey.


Mother's Day Brunch: Cowbell, Toronto

Wednesday, June 1
Cheese gougere!! A thin, delightfully crispy puff on the outside and a soft hollow centre. I bet you can't eat just one!


Starfish, Toronto, My Fave for Bivalve Molluscs and Lobster

Tuesday, May 31
Starfish is my “go to” spot for a fabulous selection of pristinely fresh oysters, clams, raw, sweet scallops on the shell (when available) and for me, the best prepared (read: perfectly cooked) fresh lobster in Toronto (I always ask for the male).


Queen Marguerita Pizza, Toronto

Saturday, May 28
I had been reluctant to return to Queen Marguerita Pizza simply because my first experience there, take out (although eaten right outside of the resto), was rather disappointing. The sauce flavour was timid and the crust too chewy and soft, especially in the centre and also the crust was not particularly flavourful. I decided that eating the pizza in the restaurant, as it was presented would be a fair way of assessing the result. Let me say from the first, that these are beautiful looking pizzas that in their appearance offer so much potential.

Photos From Noma, the #1 Restaurant In The World, Copenhagen, Denmark
Wednesday, May 4
I wrote the highlights of the dinner I enjoyed at Noma Restaurant, that appeared very recently in the National post. Please click on this link to read the article.
For a food lover, you have reached the top of the mountain when the chef of the number one restaurant in the world walks out the front door of his establishment, at prime dinner time, to personally greet you with a generous hug and hello. Chef Rene Redzepi and I recently bonded in Toronto during a speaking engagement and dinner organized by his publishers and The Cookbook Store.


Ici Restaurant, Toronto

Sunday, April 24
Ici is a very small intimate boite but very comfortable and not too noisy. This latest effort by well known Toronto chef, J P Challet and his partner, chef Jennifer Decorate, is a comfort food haven. Jennifer is also one of the best front of house "greeters" in the city and with her generous smile and warm welcome, she makes one feel right at home!


Didier Restaurant, Toronto

Thursday, April 21
For the best classical French food in Toronto, there is nothing quite like Didier's. The Chevaliers du Tastevin (the Burgundy Wine Society) chose Didier's for their annual member and guest event.


Frank's Kitchen, Toronto

Friday, April 15
Chef Frank Parhizgar is very proud that all of his food is from select regional farmers and that everything served is absolutely prepared from scratch, each day. Justifiably so, from my perspective.


Big Bone BBQ, Newmarket, Ontario

Tuesday, April 12
Big Bone BBQ is a long way from downtown Toronto. Is it worth the drive for an experienced BBQ lover who has been all over North America for good BBQ?


Pork Inspired Extravaganza at The Gilead Cafe, Toronto

Friday, April 8
Jamie Kennedy deserves another medal for his inspired, highly creative heirloom pork themed menu, a degustation of pork put together for a group of wine and food lovers. With the passionate participation of one of the country’s best producers and purveyors of fine beef, pork and lamb, Cumbrae’s own Steve Alexander, the event may have been one of the finest for experiencing a rustic but sophisticated take on regionally sourced pork products of different breeds.


New York Restaurants: Lincoln, Maialino (brunch;dinner), Hill Country Fried Chicken, Casa Mono and Ilili

Wednesday, April 6
Lincoln, Lincoln Centre
Walking into the restaurant, up the stairs, one is greeted by a very large, long open kitchen, apparently well organized and truly bustling. The room is quite fabulous, open and airy with floor to ceiling windows, cozy dark booths and open tables.
Maialino
Maialino has a very informal, rustic decor in keeping with the theme of the menu.
We began with fried artichokes accompanied by an anchovy bread sauce. The pieces of artichoke were a bit too greasy and not crispy enough. Anchovy sauce a bit overwhelmed the flavour of the artichokes, but was terrific with bread for dipping.
Brunch at Maialino
My main was tripe in a mildly spicy tomato sauce, topped with a fried egg. What a wonderful combination of textures and flavours for me, although one must acquire a taste for tripe.
Hill Country Fried Chicken
I heard a lot about this well known spot and chose to go for lunch.
Fries have a crunchy skin, soft interior and are remarkably ungreasy and quite tasty. It seemed like they were baked not fried, but they were fried.
Casa Mono
Casa Mono is a very small resto, with 14 counter seats and only 7 tables and by virtue of it’s size quite noisy.
I began with crispy, corn meal breaded, deep fried, Chopitos (baby squids) with melted onions and baby bok choy in a squid ink vinaigrette. The squids were terrific, a great snack or starter, but the accompaniments seemed extraneous and really added nothing to the dish.
Ilili Lebanese Restaurant
When we were seated we were immediately served labneh with crispy flatbread and olives.
We began with the old standard, babaganoush with tahini and olive oil. This dish was disappointing. Not enough smokiness and it was too tart.


Toca Restaurant, Ritz Carlton Hotel, Toronto

Thursday, March 24
Toca Restaurant's chef is Tom Brodi, former executive chef under Anthony Walsh at Canoe Restaurant. So, I had high expectations looking forward to my dinner there. The room itself has a very comfortable atmosphere. It is both sophisticated and informal in a very modern way. Although I did not order it, i noticed that the menu features the makers one of my very favourite smoked salmons; Wolfhead.


Xam-Yu Seafood Restaurant, Toronto
Monday, March 21
I made a request, well in advance, to have the restaurant bring in a giant Alaskan king crab, now in season, for the centrepiece of our meal. What a wonderful experience! The crab was perfectly cooked and prepared in 3 ways, the first, boiled to a tender doneness, the the thicker portion of the legs split and the sweetly addictive meat easily accessible and served with the crab juice and roe, all in the shell, with chopped scallions


Dining at Inigo Restaurant, Toronto

Friday, March 11
Inigo restaurant is chef Carlos Hernadez' new effort located at 927 Queen street west. It is worth a journey. When he was at Torito restaurant, I found that his oeuvre, for me, made him one of the best chefs in the city. At Inigo, the menu is very limited so his range is not appreciable, but trust me, this chef can cook! What makes him so good for me is the range of intense flavours and textures that are so complementary and that the flavours can be so well appreciated on their own. His cuisine is true comfort food.


Hashimoto Restaurant, Toronto, One of North America's Finest Japanese Experiences

Friday, March 4
We were greeted at the door of the new Hashimoto restaurant in the Japanese Cultural Centre by the chef’s wife. She was dressed in very traditional formal Japanese clothes. We had made advanced arrangements with the chef for a very private, formal kaiseki dinner. All of the fish and vegetables were seasonal and freshly flown in from Japan.


Recent San Francisco restaurant experiences

Sunday, February 27
Perbacco
We arrived at Perbacco in the heart of the truffle season and the restaurant had a special truffle menu prepared featuring Alba truffles in 10 courses consisting of antipasti, primi and secondi...
Incanto, San Francisco
Incanto is one of those great "discovery" restaurants. Very simple ambiance, but, Chris Consentino...what a chef!! The food that we enjoyed here was true visual, gustatory and olfactory comfort food!! NB-- this is a restaurant that you can call ahead for a group of 6 or more and order "leg of beast", ham in hay or a whole pig!!
Zero Zero
Zero Zero is restaurant and bar, with a very good selection of starters, salads, pastas and desserts. It also features very good pizzas made in a wood burning oven.
SPQR
The character of this restaurant is to present many small dishes with lots of rustic flavours and textures and they did that well.
COI
Coi is clearly one of the great restaurants of San Francisco and perhaps the United States. The cuisine is world class. The menu changes regularly and reflects the best of what is seasonal and available locally.
Contigo
Contigo is a Spanish influenced resto specializing in small plates. The cuisine is authentic, rustic and very satisfying.

Hadley's, Toronto
Saturday, February 19
Hadley's is a restaurant that has a limited menu of BBQ'd and other non-bbq items. I was there to try the BBQ foods. My first test was the BBQ'd ribs and the sauce. The ribs are quite tasty with a good smokey flavour and what I consider a lip smacking flavourful goodness to the lacquered reduced sauce on the meat.


Torito Restaurant, Toronto

Thursday, February 17
A small informal fun boutique to have a good time with friends, while enjoying good food in small portions, tasting, while imbibing a good mojito or a lovely malbec wine. That is Torito.


La Chaine Des Rotisseurs at Cava Resto, Toronto

Sunday, February 13
It is always a great comfort for me to return to food inspired by a gent I consider one of Canada's great chefs, Chris Macdonald and his extremely able partner, the executive chef of Cava, Doug Penfold. The excuse this time was a dinner organized by my confreres in La Chaine des Rotisseurs.


Frank Restaurant at The Art Gallery of Ontario

Sunday, February 13
I began with a 1/2 order of the seafood bourride. The execution was not a classic bourride, but more of a seafood stew, with mussels, clams, white shrimp and chopped chorizo sausage all in a saffron seasoned broth, sided with a piece of garlic toast.


Campagnolo Restaurant, Toronto

Wednesday, February 9
House made gougere and hot and crispy Epi bread baguette. La Quercia rose prociutto, prociutto so good that if your eyes were shut, you could be eating in Italy...


Berkeley and Oakland, California Restaurant Experiences

Tuesday, February 8
Chez Panisse Restaurant Cafe, Berkeley
Chez Panisse restaurant has been around for a very long time. I chose to eat at the cafe upstairs, a less formal establishment that has a very special interest in comfort food.

Bakesale Betty's, Oakland
Bakesale Betty's is a very small room with no seats inside and a big lineup outside if you come during the prime times. They are particularly known for their southern fried chicken sandwich and it is known throughout the area, hence the long lines.

Saul's Restaurant and Delicatessen, Berkeley
Saul's is mentioned in many guidebooks and in David Sax's book, Save the Deli. So, I decided to try it out.

Tacos Sinaloa, Oakland
This tacos truck was a trek and probably not worth it, but once I received my food, I enjoyed it for what it was, good local real food.

Everett and Jones BBQ, Oakland
Everett and Jones is a well known highly regarded local bbq resto that uses white oak for smoking.


Reflections on Recent Resto Experiences: Porchetta & Co and Enoteca Sociale

Tuesday, January 25
We recently wrote about Porchetta and Co. Having been a super fan of New York's Porchetta, I just wanted to address the difference between the two shops. First, allow me to say that I am absolutely delighted by the introducttion of a porchetta sandwich shop in the lower portion of Toronto. I no longer have to take a 40 minute drive to the burbs to satisfy my craving. The sandwich experience of each restaurant is truly superior.


Two Restaurants in Miami
Tuesday, January 25
I had a brief overnight in Miami and had a chance to visit 2 highly recommended restaurants. These stepped outside one of my usual favourites when I visit, Graziano's Parilla Argentina. Graziano's has meats that they cook over a wood fired grill or a parilla, a large circular fire pit filled with large wood chanks over which is hung, at an angle, spits of ribs, lamb, beef, etc. But, I am not about to discuss Graziano's in this review.


Restaurants of Palm Beach, Florida

Thursday, January 1
To be frank, Palm Beach Florida has many adequate restaurants, but few that inspire me to return. So when I stay there, I often wind up ordering fresh meats and poultry, from such star purveyors across the U.S. as Lobel's (for their Wyoming burgers and steaks) in New York and Bryan's Fine Foods (Corta Madera, California) for their exceptional aged lamb and their custom ordered and ground burgers where one may select the burger ingredients from over 20 types of meat for the burger. Also, I have the opportunity of ordering bbq brisket, ribs, and their sauce from some of the great bbq spots in the United States or bacon from so of the best producers who custom smoke their wonderfully different bacon.


What I Love About Buca Restaurant, Toronto
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Buca restaurant is one of the very few restaurants in the Toronto area that serves reassuringly rustic, Italian inspired cuisine.


What I Love About Starfish Restaurant in Toronto
Starfish, despite it's vaunted reputation for a great variety of pristinely fresh shellfish, has a very good menu of "other foods" prepared by a talented chef. It also is my favourite place in Toronto to enjoy really fresh lobster that is never over cooked....even slightly!


Centro's Restaurant: Inspired Chef's Creations
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Chef Jason Carter loves to be challenged and inspired. In preparation for a special event for the Chevaliers du Tastevin (the dinner of the Burgundy wine society) he created a most inspired truffle based menu.

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Josh's Reviews
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