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Food History
 Culinary Landmarks
Elizabeth Driver
A labour of love, more than twelve years in the making, Elizabeth Driver’s bibliography of Canadian cookbooks published between 1825 and 1949 offers a glimpse into the early domestic life of our country. Thought additives came along in the second half of the 20th century? Consider Parke’s Preservine. It was added to tomatoes and other canned fruits to prevent spoilage without altering the taste or colour! Then as now, women’s organizations produced many cookbooks but some of those organizations eg. the Women’s Institute are now almost extinct. In an age when home canning was a necessity, vinegar companies and the cookbooks they offered flourished. The entries are organized by province and within the province, by year. There are also sections for non-province specific, American, and British books. Ever meticulous, Driver created indexes by place-of-publication, name, and short title. This is a book to dip into for years to come and an invaluable research tool for generations to come. Hardcover, 1257 pp., $185.00.
 The Donut
Steve Penfold
The Donut began life as a PhD thesis in the history department at York University — and has the graphs and footnotes to prove it. However, more social history rather than business history, it demonstrates how the rise (so to speak) of the donut has mirrored transitions in modern Canadian life. Thought provoking, sometimes funny, often original, Steve Penfold reminds us that Tim’s is not the only donut in the country. Black & white photos. Softcover, 256 pp, $24.95.
Vivo e: The Fish Markets of Sicily
Andrea Zanfi, photographs by Gio Martorana
There is text to peruse in this book including a glossary of the fish sold in Sicilian market stalls. However, it is really the stunning photographs that really tell the story of Sicily’s fish markets and the culture built up around them over the centuries. From the majolica fish that grace the cover to the almost transparent nunnata and the seemingly pre-historic spininess of sea urchins, this is a book breath-taking beauty. Hardcover, 267 pp, $105.95.
Rogues, Writers & Whores: Dining with the Rich & Infamous
Daniel Rogov
No, this is not about what Brittany Spears eats (or doesn't eat). We encounter Proust, Marquis de Sade, Esscoffier, Curnonsky, Zola, Sacher, Cardinal Richelieu to name but 69 of the worthy rogues. For example who knew Queen Elizabeth I loved sweets so much she had large pockets sewn into all of her dresses to store her beloved cookies, candies and petits fours! Hardcover, 333pp, $32.95.
Food: the History of Taste
Edited by Paul Freedman
University of California Press doesn't publish many culinary books but when they do, what gems they are. Essays from food historians from around the world present a history of taste from earliest prehistory to the present day gastronomic landscape. Richly illustrated and beautifully designed this is must for everyone interested in the pleasure of taste. Hardcover, 368 pp. $45.95.
Citrus
Pierre Laszlo
There are academics. There are storytellers. Rarely the twain doth meet. However, meet they do in Pierre Laszlo, professor emeritus of chemistry at the University of Liege and the Ecole Polytechnique. As he did earlier with Salt: Grain of Life ($22.00, pbk), Laszlo weaves together the scientific, the historical, and the cultural to bring the story of a fruit family that has worked its way into virtually every cuisine around the world. Colour photos. Hardcover, 251 pp. $25.00.
Bitter Chocolate
Carol Off
An expose of the dark side of chocolate this is a must read for those unaware of the history and politics of chocolate and those dubious of paying extra for fair trade sweets. Off investigates the cocao trade from the original, exotic Aztec delicacy, through colonial exploitation and the slave trade, to today with cocao crops controlled by multinationals. The book also includes a critical look at the fair trade moniker and what it really means. Hardcover, 326 pp. $34.95.
One Continuous Picnic: A Gastronomic History of Australia
Michael Symons
This is a revised and expanded edition of Symons’s fascinating account of Australia’s history as revealed through food. Erudite yet engaging, Symon looks at the influence that various immigrant groups have had on cuisine, the development of such iconic items as Vegemite and Pavlova, and trend towards local eating and industry in Australia today. This edition features an expanded bibliography and index. B & W illustrations. Softcover, 366 pp.
Food
John Knechtel
The Alphabet City/MIT series aims to get readers thinking by challenging accepted orthodoxy on various topics. Here writers and artists examine the many ways in which the need for food collides with economics, geography, and the demand for “in” foodstuffs. Edgy graphics reflect forward thinking. Hardcover, 330 pp. $17.95.
Arranging the Meal
Jean-Louis Flandrin
The order in which food is served has changed over the ages and from country to country. Traditionally social historians have considered this evolution a distinct phenomenon. Using old menus, comparisons between countries, and countries in various periods, Professor Flandrin argues that, like so many events in social history, it is a result of socio-economic factors. Copious footnotes, bibliography, and reproductions of vintage illustrations. Hardcover, 209 pp. $34.95.
The Borough Market Book: From Roots to Renaissance
Although it has been the site of a wholesale produce market for a thousand years, it is only in the last decade that London’s Borough Market has welcomed retail customers. This book captures all the charm and colour which have made it a destination for foodies everywhere. Interviews with retailers (eg Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard) and shoppers (Rose Gray, Mark Hix, Antonio Carluccio et al) help to define the pleasures of the market. The icing on the cake is a selection of simple seasonal recipes employing ingredients fresh from the market. The market traders’ directory lists retailers both alphabetically and by category. Colour photos. Softcover, 175 pp, $49.95.
Bread & Oil
Tomas Graves
A treatise on mediterranean cooking, agriculture, and traditions illustrated
with examples and recipes from the island of Majorca. This is a lovely
and loving guide to the people and cuisine of the island perfect
for literary foodies and anyone travelling in the region. Hardcover,
254 pp. $29.95.
Prohibition
Edward Behr
An important and interesting look at the thirteen years of American prohibition, perhaps one of the country's greatest blunders. Behr's work, a companion piece to the A&E television special, examines the temperance movement and the outcomes of Prohibition, notably the rise in organized crime as bootlegging became essential to slake the thirst of speakeasy patrons. An especially sobering book in light of current policies designed to enforce moral behaviour, particularly the flagging war on drugs and the efforts to enact a constitutional amendment to ban gay marriage. Black and white photographs. Softcover, 262 pp. $18.95.
Everybody Eats There
William Stadiem & Mara Gibbs
What better way to spend your holidays than reading a book that mixes social history, culinary history, and gossip? The authors take the reader into and behind the scene of the places celebrities have made a home away from home places like New York’s Elaine’s and Balthazar, London’s Ivy and San Lorenzo, Hong Kong’s The China Club. When you are done reading, start dialing, there is a list of addresses and phone numbers in the back. A few black and white photos of the scene not the food. Hardcover, 369 pp, $33.95.
Good Bread is Back
Steven Laurence Kaplan
An academic who has been twice knighted by the French government for contributions to "the sustenance and nourishment" of French culture, Steven Laurence Kaplan has made the history of French bread and its renaissance his avocation. Rather than merely presenting facts, Kaplan is able to evoke the sensory properties which make French bread beloved way beyond the borders of France. Colour photos of historic boulangeries. Hardcover, 368 pp, $32.95.
Cakes and Ale
Judy Spours
The Great Exhibition of 1851 and the sinking of the Titanic in 1912 book ended what could be termed Britain’s Golden Age of Gluttony. From street food to over-the-top banquets, from celebrity chefs to domestic goddesses, Judy Spours explores culinary indulgence set against a background of social strictures. Reproductions of magnificent period illustrations - many from advertisements - evoke the age. Hardcover, 176 pp. $35.00.
Planet Chicken
Hattie Ellis
Like a veal calf, the chicken’s short life is not a pleasant one. British writer Hattie Ellis details the evolution of chicken farming into a business in which up to 10,000 may co-exist in one closed space. While raising serious questions about the ethical advisability of continuing to consume birds raised in these conditions, Ellis, in interviews with small producers, also offers hope for the return to “real” chicken. Foreword by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Hardcover, 308 pp, $29.95.
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