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News January 22, 2009
Table of Contents
New Books
 Amy's Bread Updated
Amy Scherber & Kim Dupree
A new and revised edition of the ever popular Amy, the bakery of the same name, in New York. Featuring recipes for breads both savoury and sweet, as well as great ideas for sandwiches, this is a must for bread and baking enthusiasts. Hardcover, 276 pp. $42.00.
 Siete
Edited by
Rafael Vila
Seven patisiers who have been awarded the title Pastry Chef of Spain such as chocolate cake, cookie, frozen dessert, tidbit, and artistic piece. A wonderful source of recipes and inspiration for the professional pastry chef. Hardcover, 326 pp. $195.00.
 Paco Torreblanca Coleccion
Paco Torreblanca
A boxed set collection of two of the Spanish sugar genius Sugarworks and Techniques, this should please any pastry chefs with a flair for quirky creations. A portrait of Picasso rendered in pastillage, and a tower of blown caramel apples looks fairytale-esque. Although a professional book, there are ideas and techniques in here which might provide a welcome challenge for confident home bakers. Hardcover, 167 pp. + 128 pp. $165.00.
 Fire and Knives
Edited by
Tim Hayward
A new quarterly journal of food writing coming out of the UK, Fire and Knives is a unique publication offering writers and readers a forum for unusual and interesting pieces of food writing, from professionals such as Matthew Fort and Tom Parker Bowles, writing about British cuisine and cookbook collecting respectively, to up and coming food writers. There are also short stories and photo essays. Softcover, $19.99.
  Lighthearted At Home
Anne Lindsay
A collection of new and revised recipes from one of Canada of healthy cookbooks, Anne Lindsay anyone looking for healthy, nutritious food which still has lots of flavour. Hardcover, 486 pp, $38.95.
 Tender Volume 1
Nigel Slater
A new offering from one of the world Cookbook Store tribute to his vegetable garden. He offers practical advice on gardening and information on plant types, but the real draw is, as usual, his recipes. Although not vegetarian, vegetables here take centre stage. Volume 2, due out in Spring, will give fruit the Nigel treatment. Hardcover, 618 pp. $44.95.
 Taste Ye Back: Great Scots and the Food That Made Them
Edited by
Sue Lawrence
Just in time for Burns day comes this book full of the favourite recipes of some of Scotland vegetable soup, Dougray Scott porridge, and Brian Cox recipes get represented; such as haggis, neeps, and tatties, cullen skink, and black bun would all be perfect precursors to a wee dram of good scotch. Hardcover, 211 pp. $34.95.
 The New Intercourses
Martha Hopkins and Randall Lockridge
A treat for Valentine ingredients with aphrodisiac properties; chocolate, chiles, honey, rosemary, and avocado are all included. A good gift to give or receive this February 14th. Hardcover, 208 pp. $32.95.
 CIA At Home: Artisan Breads
Culinary Institute of America
At Home with the Culinary Institute of America aims to give home cooks the same in depth, thoroughly tested types of cookbooks that professionals have come to expect. This book features bread recipes, both savoury and sweet, for the home baker to experiment with, as well as information on the art of artisinal bread making. Hardcover, 343 pp. $41.95
 CIA At Home: Chocolates and Confections
Culinary Institute of America
From the Culinary Institute of America a book about chocolates and confections, full of recipes for chocolates and sweet treats for the home baker and confectioner. Recipes range from simple to more elaborate creations, but all are possible in the home kitchen. Hardcover, 298 pp. $41.95.
 Professional Cooking
Seventh edition
Wayne Gisslen
Now in its seventh edition, Wayne Gisslen provides a cornerstone text for anyone in a culinary program or thinking about becoming a chef. With everything from recipes to techniques, food science and food safety, and full colour pictures throughout, this is a must have for the shelf of any chef-to-be. Hardcover, 1088 pp. $84.00.
 Grand Livre de Cuisine: Desserts and Pastry
Alain Ducasse
From the kitchens of Alain Ducasse come these 250 recipes for sweet treats, from simple biscuits, to pastries, mousses, frozen desserts, and much more. As much a draw as the recipes themselves, the information contained in this text is wonderful; from ice cream technology to chocolate tempering. A great text for professionals in pastry and confident home bakers. Hardcover, 567 pp. $77.00.
 The Best Soups in the World
Clifford Wright
As there is still a chill in the air, there the kitchen and have a big pot of soup bubbling away on the back of the stove. Clifford Wright over the world; the likes of spicy Moroccan harira and comforting cream of tomato should chase the winter blues away. Softcover, 468 pp. $27.95.
 Ching's Chinese Food in Minutes
Chine-He Huang
From one of the hottest new faces on British food television, Chine-He Huang, Ching which still provide the authenticity of real Chinese cooking. While much of the book works as everyday cooking, there is also a section on special dishes for entertaining, perfect for celebrating Chinese New Year in style.
221 pp. $43.95.
 Apicius, no. 3
The third edition of this Spanish food journal has just come into the store, and promises to be just as popular as the previous two. Beautiful photography, great articles, and recipes all make this a wonderful resource for the professional chef. Softcover, $75.00.
Best of the Decade 2000 to 2009
- Muffin Mania, Prange & Pauli 2008 (CAD)
- For the Love of Soup, Jeanelle Mitchell 2002 (CAD)
- New Food Lovers Companion, Tyler Herbst 2007
- Great Food Fast, EveryDay Food Magazine 2007
- Ad Hoc At Home, Thomas Keller 2009
- Rebar Modern Food Cookbook, Alsterberg & Urbanowicz 2002 (CAD)
- Gordon Ramsay's Healthy Appetite, Gordon Ramsay 2009
- Essentials of Home Cooking, Bonnie Stern 2003 (CAD)
- A Day at elBulli, Ferran Adria 2008
- Ace Bakery Cookbook, Linda Haynes 2003 (CAD)
- Lucy's Kitchen, Lucy Waverman 2006 (CAD)
- CheapEats Toronto (out of print) (CAD)
- Kitchen for Kids, Jennifer Low 2004 (CAD)
- 150 Best Slow Cooker Recipes, Judith Finlayson 2001 (CAD)
- Anita Stewart's Canada, Anita Stewart 2008 (CAD)
- Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan1992
- Uma Casa Portuguesa, Carla Azevedo 1990 (CAD)
- Out to Brunch, Donna Dooher 2002 (CAD)
- Jamie's Italy, Jamie Oliver 2005
- Le Repertoire de la Cuisine, Louis Saulnier 1976
- A Matter of Taste, Chatto and Waverman 2004 (CAD)
- Joy of Cooking, rev. ed., Rombauer, Becker & Becker 1997
- Kate Aitken Cookbook, Kate Aitken 2004(CAD)
- Vij, Vikram & Dhalwala 2006(CAD)
- Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 40th anniversary edition, 2001 Beck, Bertholle & Child
Julialicious part of Toronto's Winterlicious Festival
How could we not tell you about this wonderful idea from Bonnie Stern. Now it may be already sold out but who knows maybe they'll add more! The Bonnie Stern School of Cooking, 6 Erskine Ave.
If you loved the film Julie & Julia, you must have been inspired to head right home, don your pearls and prepare Julia Child Bourguignon. After taking this delicious class with instructor Bonnie Stern, you'll be able to do just that, as well as create other dishes for which Julia was famous.
Take home gifts include a copy of Julia Child France and a pound of Gay Lea unsalted butter. $99 including taxes. Call 416-484-4810. www.bonniestern.com.
Mad for Marmalade, Crazy for Citron!
Saturday February 27th 9:30 am. to 3 pm. at Historic Fort York
Last February we attended the inaugural Mad for Marmalade Day at Historic Fort York organized with the Culinary Historians of Ontario, and what a treat it was to see so many marmalade enthusiasts, presentations, a marmalade competition and the opportunity to buy over 40 different kinds of marmalade!
It is a unique opportunity to see food traditions in action and learn new skills or enhance latent ones!
Marmalade workshops, lunch, and guest speaker. Also, a marmalade marketplace and tours of the Fort.
- Pre-registration required. (416) 392-6907 ext. 221
- $25 in addition to regular admission for CHO members, Volunteer Cooks, and Friendsof Fort York
- $27 in addition to regular admission for non-members
Prize-winning Marmalade Recipes from Donna Penrose
We are delighted Donna Penrose, who operates the wonderful Lyndon Gardens with her sister Lynda in the Waterloo region, agreed to share two of her prize winning recipes so in her own words here are the recipes.
Red Currant Marmalade
This marmalade was a winner in 2009. It placed first in the marmalade contest at the Royal Winter Fair, and second at Marmalade Day, Old Fort York. I adapted a recipe from Elizabeth Baird The original recipe was credited to a nineteenth-century manuscript cookbook owned by Mary Haslett of Hamilton. As a resident of Waterloo County where red currants are in abundance during the summer at farmers markets, I couldn't resist a recipe that transformed the humble red currant into such an appealing breakfast preserve.
1.25 kg (approximately 2 L /8 c) stemmed red currants, fresh or frozen and thawed
300 g blood oranges (2 oranges)
1.25 L (5c) water
1 L (4 c) sugar
Scrub the oranges and cut in half through the stem end. Squeeze out the juice, (approximately 100 mL) and strain it to remove seeds and pulp. Set the juice aside. Remove the white membrane and as much pith as possible from the inside of the orange shells, and discard. Cut each orange shell lengthwise into three pieces. Stack the three pieces on top of each other and, while holding firmly, cut into very thin slices. Place slivered peel and 250 mL of water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over maximum heat; reduce heat and simmer, covered, for approximately 2 hours until the peel feels mushy when rubbed between finger and thumb. Strain the mixture and discard the liquid.
In a Maslin pan or large Dutch oven, combine red currants, juice collected from the blood oranges and 1 L of water. Crush the currants thoroughly with a potato masher. Bring the mixture to a boil over maximum heat while frequent stirring; reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes until the currants look shrunken and bleached. Remove the pan from the heat. Strain the contents through a pre-wetted jelly bag (or a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth) for several hours or overnight. The liquid should measure 1 L. If it is more than this, reduce by simmering gently until it reaches 1 L, and if it is less, add water to bring it up to 1 L.
Place the 1 L of liquid collected from the currants in a clean Dutch oven; add the slivered peel and sugar to it. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves; increase the heat to maximum and, with frequent stirring, bring to a rolling boil. Boil hard for 5 minutes or until the mixture has reached the gel stage i.e., the mixture can down, and falls from a wooden spoon in sheets.
Remove from the heat and stir the marmalade for 5 minutes to distribute the peel evenly throughout it. Ladle it into sterilized 250-mL jars, leaving 1 cm (0.5 cm) of space at the top of the jar. Wipe the rims clean and seal. Process 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.
Makes 1.5 L (5.5 - 6 c)
Dundee Marmalade
This version of Dundee Marmalade finds its origins in Miss Woods from the 1892 edition of The Galt Cook Book. Together, Miss Woods and I produced this prize-winning entry for the Marmalade Day contest at Old Fort York, last year. The cold, bright days of January and February are perfect for making this traditional marmalade, the boiling of which fills the kitchen with the scent of citrus.
450 g Seville oranges (3-4 oranges)
340 g navel oranges (2-3 oranges)
100 g Meyer lemon (1 lemon)
1.25 L (5 c) water
1.125 L (4.5 c) sugar
Scrub the fruit, and cut in half through the stem end. Squeeze out the juice and strain to separate the seeds and pulp from the juice. Refrigerate the juice (approximately 325 mL) overnight. Place the pulp and seeds in a pre-wetted jelly bag or 30-cm (12-inch) square of cheesecloth. Remove any white membrane still adhering to the fruit shells; add it to the jelly bag and tie tightly with a string or silicone tie. Place it in a Maslin pan or large Dutch oven with 750 mL of water.
With a sharp knife remove the blossom and stem ends from the remaining fruit shells and any blemishes found on them. Cut each fruit shell, lengthwise, into three pieces. Stack the three pieces on top of each other and, while holding firmly, cut into thin slices about 2 mm in width. Place the sliced Seville orange peel in the Maslin Pan along with the jelly bag and water. Cover and let sit overnight at room temperature. Place the rest of the sliced peel (from the navel oranges and Meyer lemon) and 500 mL of water in a large saucepan. Cover and let sit overnight at room temperature.
The next day, heat both pots the Maslin pan and the saucepan - over medium heat until each reaches a simmering boil; lower the heat, cover and simmer for 2 - 2.5 hours, until the peel feels mushy when rubbed between finger and thumb. The peel from the Seville oranges will take longer to soften than the others. Remove both pots from the heat.
Remove the jelly bag from the Maslin pan. Drain it over a large bowl and squeeze it with tongs, or press with the back of a wooden spoon, to extract more pectin-containing liquid from it. Separate the peel from the liquid by straining the contents of both pots through a sieve into the large bowl. Add to it the juice extracted from the fruit the previous and measure. The combined liquids should measure 1.125 L. If it is more, reduce by simmering gently until it reaches 1.125 L, and if less, add water to bring it up to 1.125 L.
Put all the peel into a clean Maslin pan; add the 1.125 L liquid and sugar to it, and stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to maximum and, with frequent stirring, bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Boil hard for 20 minutes, or until the mixture has reached the gel stage when it can't be stirred down, and falls from a wooden spoon in sheets.
Remove from the heat and stir the marmalade for 5 minutes to distribute the peel evenly throughout it. Ladle it into sterilized 250-mL jars, leaving 1 cm (0.5 cm) space at the top of the jar. Wipe the rims clean and seal. Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.
Makes 1.5 L (6 c)
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