Salt Cod Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse de morue

Made in Marseille
Daniel Young
Wonderful anecdotes and black-and-white photos from this great city dot the pages of Daniel Young's newest book.. The recipes build on the flavours found along the Mediterranean coast “ olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, basil, rosemary, almonds, figs and honey to name a few. You must try the Warm Baklava of Herbed Goat Cheese (p. 78) and the Salt Cod Bouillabaisse (p. 142). Hardcover, 272 pp., $44.95.

The salt cod bouillabaisse is a rustic and not terribly noble version traditionally prepared by inland Provençals for whom fresh fish was either geographically or financially out of reach.

Nevertheless, there are those who use salt cod in their soup out of personal preference. It holds its firm texture under poaching, its flavor is a natural match for the soup's garlic and saffron, and there are few bones to contend with. Other Marseillais may regard the preserved salt cod as fish insurance should mistral winds strand the local fisherman at port.

The salt cod bouillabaisse can be served, like the more famous Marseille version, in two stages: first the soup alone over the croutons; later the potatoes and salt cod, kept warm periodically with some hot broth.

Makes 6 servings

2 pounds salt cod fillets
1/4 cup olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 pounds medium potatoes (about 6), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
3 pinches saffron threads, crumbled
1 recipe Vegetable Stock for Bouillabaisse (page 136)
6 eggs, optional
1 country bread or baguette, cut into 1/2-inch slices, dried in the oven
1/2 cup Rouille (page 63) or Aïole (page 62)

1. The day before you plan to serve: Soak the salt cod fillets in cold water, changing the water 3 or 4 times, for 24 hours. Drain.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Place the potato slices over the onion, add the crumbled saffron, and top all with the vegetable stock. Raise the heat and cook for 15 minutes.

3. Lower the temperature to take the broth down from a boil to a simmer. Cut the salt cod fillets into 3-inch pieces, add to the pot, and cook at a simmer for 15 minutes. (If the potatoes are not yet tender, remove the salt cod with a slotted spoon, top with a little broth to keep warm, and continue to cook the potatoes 5 minutes more.) Taste the broth and correct the seasoning.

4. If serving with poached eggs: Working in batches of 2 to 3 eggs at a time, break each egg, and, holding it over the broth, lightly drop it in. (You may wish to poach the eggs separately in a small saucepan half-filled with bumbling broth taken from the bouillabaisse pot.) Cook at a simmer for 4 minutes. Remove the poached eggs with a slotted spoon and place in cold water to stop the cooking.

5. To serve, place 3 slices of bread on the bottom of each of 6 soup bowls. Top each slice of bread with a teaspoon or so of rouille or aïoli, if desired. Place the potatoes and salt cod fillets over the bread slices, place a poached egg over each serving, and top with all the broth.

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